2018 Crozes-Hermitage Trois Chênes, Domaine Emmanuel Darnaud

I tasted four components of the 2018 Crozes Hermitage Les Trois Chênes, rating them all within this range, whether from tank (20% of the blend) or barrel. Taken together, they're more dark fruited and plummy than some years, with ripe, supple tannins and ample concentration, but they retain a sense of vitality and freshness. Exciting potential, for sure. Drink Date 2020-2030. // When I visited Emmanuel Darnaud this year, he remained steadily upbeat, despite the hailstorms that ravaged his (and others') Crozes-Hermitage vineyards earlier in the season. "The hail came at a 'good' time," he said. "We lost this year's crop, but it allowed the vines to set new leaves and recover." He didn't think it would have a major impact on 2020. For 2017 and 2018, Darnaud said it was important not to pick too late, to keep temperatures down during fermentation, and to extract gently to retain finesse in the wines. He's experimenting more and more with whole-cluster fermentations and likes the results so far. "I'm not ready to say it should all be whole cluster, but it can add some freshness and finesse," he said. Personally, I was blown away by the aromatics and texture shown by the 100% whole-cluster trials that he offered for tasting. While known predominantly for his outstanding red wines, fans of Marsanne should make the effort to track down Darnaud's limited production (three barrels each) of white Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. There likely won't be much Darnaud wine from the 2019 vintage, so buy the wines while you can. - Joe Czerwinski.

Looking first at the 2018 Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chênes, this can be thought of as the entry-level release from this great estate and comes from a mix of different terroirs as well as young and old vines. Its deep purple hue is followed by a meaty, spicy, complex Crozes that delivers serious intensity in its black and blue fruits as well as its floral and mineral-laced aromas and flavors. Beautifully balanced, it's a wine that gains richness and depth with time in the glass, offering ripe tannins and remarkable purity of fruit. It's ideal for enjoying over the coming 10-12 years. The young Emanuel Darnaud is unquestionably one of the most talented winemakers in Crozes Hermitage. I'd call him a rising superstar, but I think he's already there.