2007 Clos des Fées "Hervé Bizeuil", Côtes du Roussillon Vingrau

Despite what its name might suggest, BizeulÆs 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Le Clos de Fees represents as usual an assemblage from various sites near Vingrau, but unlike those chosen for his less expensive reds, the parcels selected here are essentially the same year after year. Additional viticultural rigor and selection, primary fermentation in larger barrels, malo-lactic fermentation in new barriques, and 18 monthsÆ stay there on the lees characterize this blend of around equal parts Carignan, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah. A close approximation to the final assemblage exhibited a terrific combination of density with polish and refinement of tannins; richness with lift and vivacity; and sweet ripe plum and black cherry with rosemary, cherry pit, roasted meat, and crushed stone. An alluring saline, savory streak runs all the way through, with a long, luscious, bitter-sweet finishing glide path. A hit of vanilla is the only obvious manifestation of new wood, nor is there a trace of heat. I suspect this will be an excellent candidate for 8-10 years of aging.